Seesbeauty

I’m trying to find the manual breaker on a 2018 189r to reset the 12v system. I can see where the wires come off the battery and one grounds to the frame, but there’s no button on it.

My camper is in my backyard, with a dedicated 30amp outlet on my garage studio. The power went out in the camper and I checked the breaker  box in the camper, then checked the breaker box in the garage, nothing tripped. (All the electrical in the garage was recently updated by a licensed electrician when I parked the camper 4 months ago.) The breaker in the house was being tripped so I had the electrician change those switches from 20amps to 30 and he said wiring was good for up to 40.

The battery in the camper had some reserve power that was running the lights and fridge and water pump while the power was out. 

This video (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zmNrb7rpgEY) showed me that I need to reset the manual breaker but I can’t find it. Any ideas? 

Thanks! 

Tammi

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TravelerGuy
Hi Tammi,
I just went out to our 177SE and took a photo of the front crossmember with the breaker and brake controller.  Your 189 may be slightly different, but I'm pretty sure there must be a big protective breaker close to the battery cable.  Don't know if you have to lift the red rubber cover, you may just be able to press one of the two dimples to reset the breaker.  Not sure if that's the problem but it's easy to check.
Best wishes,
Traveler Guy
TongueConnections.jpg   
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Seesbeauty
Thanks TravelerGuy! I do have that same junction on my camper. I tried pushing the dimples but once I lifted the cover I saw that’s just to leave room for the bolts underneath. Maybe these campers don’t have a manual breaker reset? I wish I could figure out how to get the 12v system working again!
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TravelerGuy
I've never messed with mine, so I don't know, but you could unplug the 120 vac, and use a voltmeter to see it there is voltage on both sides of the breaker.  I guess it's possible that yours is just a 40 amp fuseable link...  So you have 12 vdc to light up the interior lights when there is 120 vac, but the lights go out when you remove the 120 vac? That would say the battery is dead or the 40 amp breaker is open.  On the other hand, if there is no 12 vdc to the lights even with 120 vac applied, I'd try opening and closing all the circuit breakers in the load center.  If still dead, then perhaps you have a failure of the converter?
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sunvalleyjoe
I made a previous post about the the thermal overload device show in picture . My burnt out it had to be replaced. Also  check the 2 40 amp orange fuses  in the box one is main 12vdc fuse and the other is reverse polarity if either one blows there will be no light indicating it has blown. If the 15amp fuses blow a red led will light up next to the blown fuse .GBA!!SVJ ps the thermal overload on battery hot wire resets by it self when it cool down. Mine burnt out in a snow storm and we had no heat I always carry a spare.
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mkevenson
I support what Joe has written and trust his electrical knowledge.  My advise also is to check the fuse box INSIDE the trailer, mine is under the fridge
Mark
Please buy Made in USA
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sunvalleyjoe
one last 2 cents worth. Retro method of the grounding of neg battery wire is sub par. At least the choud remove the paint from frame and drill hole with bolt and nut not self tapper. GBA!!SVJ
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KLandry
I agree with the grounding issue.  Several avionics manufacturers I deal with state that self tapping/sheet metal screws are not adequate.  They also show proper ground stud construction: strip paint/coatings, drill hole, use machine screw or bolt with proper locking nut, and a star washer between the terminal end and ground surface.  Hope this helps.
Keith
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Seesbeauty
Thanks sunvalleyjoe and KLandry, that’s good info.
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TravelerGuy
Yep, I concur with Keith.  In avaiation we additionally have aluminum which has it's own oxidation problems.  Don't wanna lose charging current thourgh a poor ground connection.
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sunvalleyjoe
copper grounding lug at Home Depot less than $5. Drill1/4inch hole in frame scrape paint away and ready to go . I passed wire thru lug and ran #6 Thhn wire  pack to WFCO unit virtually no voltage drop.GBA!!SVJ hey travel guy our mechanics took good care of our Hueys in the 60' Joe DAV
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TravelerGuy
Yeah, I bet those mechanics knew a LOT about them Hueys.  And fixed some real interesting problems, too.  Enjoy your weekend Joe!
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mikes
Seesbeauty wrote:

The power went out in the camper and I checked the breaker  box in the camper, then checked the breaker box in the garage, nothing tripped. (All the electrical in the garage was recently updated by a licensed electrician when I parked the camper 4 months ago.) The breaker in the house was being tripped so I had the electrician change those switches from 20amps to 30 and he said wiring was good for up to 40.

The battery in the camper had some reserve power that was running the lights and fridge and water pump while the power was out.



If the battery was powering the camper, it's not the thermal breaker on the front - you wouldn't get any 12V power. It sounds like you have an issue with the 120 V feed (which in turn powers the converter which provides 12V when plugged in).

It's doubtful your camper would draw more than 20 A to blow the house breaker. You'd have to be using everything, including both A/C and microwave.

It sounds like the outlet in the garage is new. I'm guessing it's an RV receptacle, so you can plug the cord from the camper in directly. It may be wired wrong - a lot of electricians aren't familiar with them, and wire them like the old 30 A dryer outlets.

[RV-Dryer_Outlets] 

The converter is a rectangular plastic panel somewhere, the panel opens up and 120 VAC breakers and 12 VDC fuses are there. Check those. 

Do you have one of those "dog bone" adapters which lets you plug into a regular wall outlet? Try that, with an extension cord. If you don't get 12 V from the converter, there's a good chance the outlet was wired for 240 V, and it burned out the converter (hopefully not the air conditioner and microwave too).
Mike
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