HOW TO:  Replace exterior stove vent

Make your Retro look much better.  Honestly I wish that I'd done this right when I bought mine, it looks so good!!!

COST:  $40.00
TIME: 30 minutes

My exterior stove vent has "yellowed" in color over the years, and the center support broke off and also the tab on one side that holds the flap closed.  And then this year it started to get "brown" color streaks in it.  The plastic is very brittle and deteriorating fast.  It was time to replace it with a new one, a better one that would not yellow or degrade in the sun.


  • New vent $34. --  JR Products 50035 Endura Range Vent - 1-1/2" Flange, Polar White).  This is an exact size fit for ours, even the screw holes line up perfectly.  And it's non-yellowing, and has a nice removable/replaceable outer cover that hides all the screws and looks like a factory fit on the retro, literally it is the vent cover the Retro should have come with in the first place.
  • Putty Tape $7  --  Use to Replace or Install Roof Vents, Side Mount Vents Plumbing Stacks and Refrigerator Vents.
  • Philips screw driver
  • Scissors
  • Plastic putty scraper


STEP 1:  Remove old vent

Use the Philips screwdriver to remove all the screws on the outside perimeter of the vent.  Then use the putty scraper to slide under the exterior vent edge and work it around the edges to loosen the putty and calking.  The vent will now pop free and can be gently pulled off.


Now work the putty scraper around the edges of the opening to clean off any left over putty and caulking.

STEP 2:  Apply new putty

Use the scissors to cut strips of putty and pressure them onto the siding around the opening.  Really firmly run your thumb over the top of each putty strip (leaving the paper backing on while you do this).  And once the putty strips have been pressed onto the siding and are staying in place you can peel off the paper backing material.


STEP 3:  Install the new vent

Remove the decorative cover from the new vent so the screw holes are visible.  Then line up and gently push the new vent into the opening, it will slide over the outside of the black metal stove vent box.  Use the Philips screwdriver and the same screws from the old vent to screw the new vent into place.  I found it worked best to tighten the screws similar to the way you tighten lug nuts on a vehicle tire.  tighten down one until it has resistance then move onto the one diagonally across and tighten it down and so on until you've lightly tightened all of them.  Then repeat the process, work your way back around.  And maybe a third time to do a final tightening.

     NOTE  --  Do not over tighten the screws!  They are only going into the aluminum sheet metal siding and can strip out easily.  The vent cover is light weight and really doesn't need super tight screws.  If you do over tighten some of them it's probably fine to just leave them in place.  Or you can go buy some slightly larger diameter screws if necessary to replace ones you overtightened.



Look at those vent flap latches.  Much easier to get to and just push them to pop the vent cover free, or press them down to relatch.  Easy!

STEP 4:  Install the decorative cover

This plastic cover slip just pops on with a few plastic tabs.  It hides all the screws.

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Great post!, great photos!  Thanks.
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Good find.  
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Where's the "love" button? This is great! 
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Alabama Jim
Wow !!  great job.  The photos and explanation are excellent.  Thank you for sharing.  This is somewhere in my future.
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Very nice. A definate new item on the "to Do" list. Thanks!
~ Linda & Bill
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@dwight.hughes, thanks again for the post, and tip on this vent.
As soon as I shared with Linda this was a priority must-do. She ordered Amazon Prime, got it mid-week, and I put in this weekend. Looking Great! With a follow-up note for others who try, because it wasn't a Plug-'n-Play install on our trailer...
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Looks amazing! Even on our 1 1/2-old unit, the original was getting ugly and cracking here and there. Worse, the very small tabs meant to hold the flap in place didn't work. We resorted to taping the flap shut tight so it didn't rattle at night in the wind and wake us up.
Plus, during the install, I found another issue with the original Ventline unit — it didn't actually connect to the internal fan duct. So the cooking air coming out had to blow through open space to reach the outside. Not up to my personal building code.

And the follow up notes on  our install for fellow DIY'ers ...
#1 in our trailer, the opening is 10.5 inches, and the new unit was also 10.5 in, and thicker at the corners. Didn't...want...to...fit. So I had to remove some material to persuade it to slide in.
#2 —Then the vent "throat" on this unit's flange (unlike the next to non-existent one on the OEM unit) was actually too long, had  to saw off an inch or so so the unit would go flush with the outer wall: the flange is about 2" long and the unit only had 1.5+" of depth.
So a little added work — but looks fantastic, and will perform way, way better! Couldn't be happier.
Thanks again for the original post.
~ Linda & Bill
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Looks awesome!  I should have figured different Retro models would be a little different, especially different years.  Sorry it wasn't exactly a drop-in replacement experience for you.  But WOW, the results are amazing.  I love the blue and white!!!
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