cadal99
Feel like this is a silly question... But... 176S spec lists gray water tank as 32G on Riverside web page.  But realizing that I actually have 2 separate sensors for "galley" (aka kitchen sink) and "gray water" (shower)... so is that 32G split then?  and if so, what would the ratio be?  Or do the 2 buttons on the panel just go to the same gray water sensor?  I guess that there would be 2 handles to flush the gray tanks if they are separate tanks - though our walk through video just shows one - but that'll be easy enough to figure out next time I go pickup the camper from storage.  Just was thinking about this if they are separate, then what's the capacity of each, and if they aren't separate, why are there 2 buttons for sensor panel?
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dwight.hughes
Typically the toilet is "black" water tank.  And "gray" water tank is both shower and sink.

32gal is HUGE for a small lightweight trailer, geez!  Could that be a misprint?
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cadal99
I dunno.. Just going from the spec on their web page. I find the lack of model and unit specific owners manuals very frustrating.   The A/C is listed as 10000BTU here and from the dealer when I bought it. Yet I'm having it overload my 3000/3300 watt generator...  Which runs fine with 1875W and 1250W hair dryers running simultaneously.  And spec shows 14" tires when unit actually has 15" (that at least is easy to figure out). So that's why I'm asking trying to figure out what the galley vs gray water buttons are  on the sensor panel. A/C manual that came with camper is for 10 different models ranging from 10K to 15K BTI so without going on the roof and taking the cover off I guess I have no idea now what I actually have... Other than knowing it's overloading my generator. 

Strange that these things aren't more clear...

29950E5A-70D0-46D9-95BE-2F082C2427FD.jpeg  EF87C368-BBCF-4BE0-BDF8-0B2A8F2340F1.png 
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Roadrunner
Our 195 is also 32 gray water, fresh water 39 and black water 17 I wish the black water was bigger. 
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Alabama Jim
32 gallons is accurate.  Don't know why there are two level indicators, but can't imagine splitting the tank.  My guess is that both should be measuring the same tank.  They normally put 14 inch tires on them, but if you got 15 inch and there is room to rotate properly then you are a winner  Check to see if they are radials, you do not want bias tires on a travel trailer and at one time several years ago they were putting bias tires on and got a large number of complaints.
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2ty
The same Level Sensor panel is used throughout their line, your 176S does not have a Galley Tank so that button will always indicate Empty. Your tank capacities are the same as my 189R.
An A/C unit requires almost twice its running current for a few seconds at startup, this, in addition to whatever power is going into your power converter (battery charging) and other loads probably exceeds the protection level of your generator.  Generators vary in their ability to provide this surge current when it exceeds their ratings.
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cadal99
Thanks for the info and confirmation on the gray/galley sensor.  Figured it was something silly, but nice to have some experience/confirmation.

on the whole generator & A/C thing - yeah, I know about the surge power at startup, and that's definitely what's killing it.  Just trying to figure out why.   I will have to climb up on the roof and pull off the top to see what actual model number A/C I have.  Like I said - the spec at at 10,000 BTU seems like general consensus is supposed to  be around 2000W startup, 700W running.  13,500 BTU is 2750 startup, 1250 running - so even if I had an "upgraded" A/C vs. the web page and dealer spec, my 3300W startup, 3000W running Generator seems like it should easily be able to support either of those sizes, but it definitely doesn't  - Even if I account for the fact that I'm at about 5,000 ft. here Colorado and generator spec says I'll lose about 3.5% per 1000 feet - that would still get me to around 2700W starting, 2475W running... so should be plenty for running either size, though I could see how the 13,500 BTU I would definitely be right at the edge of being able to startup.  

So my suspicion is that even though I was told i have 10K BTU A/C when I bought the thing, that I actually have a larger one on there.  Unfortunately the the manual is generic like I said for 10 different Dometic models and I assume I'll have to climb up top to see what I really have.  Manual has models all the way up to 15K BTU, so suppose it could be that large, but seems like overkill (in my absolutely zero years of experience owning a TT before now 🙂 for something this size, so I kinda doubt it. 

I've heard about these switches that are supposed to help do some kind of soft start on A/C - has anyone had any experience with those on a retro (I suppose I should probably start a different thread - but I'll leave it it here since I typed it all out 🙂    Or any other thoughts on how to test how much compressor is actually drawing at startup to help me figure out if I have a problem generator or just need something bigger?  I was able to plug in a 1250W and 1875W hair dryers to the generator directly to the standard 110V plugs.  It would actually run both of those ok, though I could get it to trip if I tried to start them both simultaneously (sometimes it would be o.k. sometimes it would trip)

And also - since the generator is new, I've run it about 3 hours just breaking it in at 50% or less load - and was just trying it out for the A/C since I had the TT home from the storage lot.  Manual does say to not run at over 50% load for first 5 hours - so is there some miracle that will happen in the next 2 hours of run time that will increase my startup current?  Or does letting the generator warm up longer before turning on the compressor make any difference on the effectiveness?
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sunvalleyjoe
Who made the gen. I helped some people who bought a gen fromn Harbor freight with the same issues while camping last year. I had some of my test gear (meters) with me. We determined the gen was faulty out of the box. They had not run it before their trip. I would run it and change oil after 10 hours and try it again. Our Retro only has small ac unit so 2000 watt yahama has no trouble. Good luck we camped at 7000 ft in Bridgeport. GBA!!SVJ
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cadal99
The generator is a Firman W03083... admit that I hadn't run it for complete 5 hour breakin period (only about 3) before deciding to give it a test.  I did talk to Firman yesterday, they recommended finishing the break in period with small load only, and they recommended disconnecting/turning off the converter and trying again, because if the converter working to charge the battery it may actually be drawing a lot of current and contributing to the overload.  Maybe??   But then - a) with the converter off, will the 12V systems run off battery? b) what's easiest way to turn off converter?  Is there a separate breaker just for it?   I suppose if that worked, then during hot day, I could use generator to run A/C and keep things cool, and then when A/C not needed, flip it back on to recharge battery and all.  but I don't think I've ever heard of anyone needing to do this before. 

Yeah I figured that a 2000W would run a small A/C, so I went with a 3000W version figuring give me some gap to run the A/C and hopefully a little more.  But given this behavior... again, not sure if the generator faulty, if A/C is maybe pulling more than expected and has its own problem (haven't been camping yet with it hooked up to a 30A plug either), or something else - be nice if I just needed to let it break in more and/or change the oil or whatever, but seems like that would be a miracle if that was enough...
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sunvalleyjoe
To check without converter pull the fuse on converter one should be 40 amp main and other 40 for reverse polarity. I blew the main one time and the 12vdc did not work. It was freezing cold and no heat. Good luck.  GBA!!SVJ
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